Contact us. All rights reserved. Login Register Registered Customers. If you have an account, sign in with your email address. Sign In. Forgot Your Password? Personal Information First Name. Last Name. Sign Up for Newsletter. Password Password Strength: No Password. Confirm Password. Create an Account. Please enter your email address below to receive a password reset link. Reset My Password. Go back. It's also a good idea to have some paper towels and newspaper available to catch and soak up any stray oil that the drain basin doesn't catch.
I'm also a big fan of nitrile gloves to keep the grimy old oil off my mitts. The first thing you'll have to address is elevating your C5 or C6 and supporting it while it's off the ground.
These ramps are made of strong, lightweight plastic and the bottom surface is waffled to distribute the weight evenly across the entire contact surface of the ramp. What this means, simply, is that they won't dig into the tarmac of your driveway or scratch up your garage floor the way pressed-steel ramps do. If you don't have gradual-incline ramps like the Rhino units, you can elevate the front of the Corvette using a hydraulic floor jack, also known as a trolley jack.
Bear in mind, however, that the bodies of C5s and C6s curl and wrap around the hydro-formed framerails, so it's easy to dig into and crack the body plastic on the underside of the car.
Another option is to purchase a set of four aluminum lifting pads that fit these openings and give you a solid platform to jack from. A third alternative is to purchase a set of four plastic lifting plates that serve the same purpose as the aluminum pads.
The jack insert, the lifting pads, and the lifting plates are all available from Mid America Motorworks as well. Or, you can also use your trolley jack to lift the entire rear end of the C5 off the ground by placing it under the transaxle crossmember.
If you go this route, you'll need a trolley jack that has a very low profile, and I strongly suggest using a padded jacking platform such as the one offered by The Eastwood Company. This padded platform simply drops in place on the trolley jack just like the stock lifting platform that came with the jack.
Regardless of which of these methods and mechanisms you use to elevate your C5, you're going to need a pair or two pair if you don't use ramps of jackstands to support the vehicle safely when it is off the ground.
It's time for me to get up on the soapbox now, so bear with me while I do a little preaching here. Never, ever, get under your C5 or C6 or any car for any reason without supporting it properly. Jackstands are inexpensive insurance against injury to you and your beloved Corvette, so don't be foolish to work on your elevated vehicle without having them in place.
Nothing can ruin your day like having your Corvette come crashing down on top of you, so don't be penny wise and dollar foolish when it comes to equipment. Enough said on safety, so let's move on. As I mentioned earlier, the C5 oil drain plug is at the front of the oil pan, so the nose of the car should be lower than the rear in order for the oil to drain forward. Having the rear of the C5 elevated about inches higher than the rear will do nicely to help evacuate the old oil. On the C6, the drain plug is next to the oil filter, so the vehicle should be level for changing the oil, rather than having the rear slightly elevated a la C5.
Before removing the drain plug, however, open the hood and remove the oil filler cap and pull the dipstick up a bit so that it's not fully seated. This helps to relieve pressure and enables the oil to drain a bit faster. I also suggest that the engine oil be warm when doing the oil change; warm oil is thinner and flows more quickly than cold oil.
Next, it's time to position the drain pan underneath and slightly forward of the drain plug. Use your 15mm box wrench or socket and ratchet to loosen and, ultimately, remove the drain plug. Give it at least 15 minutes for the oil to drain. When the flow has slowed down to a thin trickle or better yet, intermittent drops , you can replace the drain plug; 15 lb-ft is the factory torque spec.
I use the "feel" method, however. That is, I tighten it until it feels tight enough to me. Be sure not to over-tighten the plug-it's a bear to remove at the factory spec, so it may well be impossible to get it out without ruining it if you go too tight.
Now you're ready to move the drain pan under the oil filter and remove it. Again, it's important that the car is level. Reinstall fill plug. Once everything is buttoned up, it is recommended per TSB to run the car in a tight "figure 8" pattern about 8 or 10 times as soon as you possibly can after the oil swap. Many consider this an important step so do not overlook it. Thanks to the forum and its members for much of the info in this DIY post! Note: I was just alerted that the axle drain plug on models at least on his sits above the leaf spring so that you cannot get an allen wrench straight in from below.
The spring is in the way. An L-shaped allen wrench tool must be used so that it can be pivoted above the leaf spring. On my model, the spring is NOT in the way of the plug and you can easily get an allen socket straight into the plug from below. Thanks Paulct for the below "" photos. We suspect this difference in drain plug position has to do with the differential case change between and As plates slip and stick, a jumping or jerking feel occurs accompanied by a clunk noise.
It is not necessary to flush the old fluid from the differential. Drain and refill the rear differential fluid using the procedure listed below.
Draining Procedure: Raise and support the vehicle. Clean any dirt from around the differential drain plug. If not equipped with a differential cooler, remove the drain plug 1 and washer 2 from the differential. If equipped with a differential cooler: 4. Using a bent tip screwdriver, remove the quick connect fitting retaining ring 3 from the quick connect fitting 4 and discard the retaining ring.
Remove the differential cooler inlet pipe from the differential nut. Drain the fluid. Filling Procedure: If not equipped with a differential cooler, install the drain plug 1 and washer 2 to the differential. If equipped with a differential cooler: 2. Install a new retaining ring. Connect the differential cooler pump inlet pipe 2 to the differential. A distinct snap should be heard or felt when assembling the cooler pipe to the fitting. To ensure the cooler line is properly installed, give the cooler pipe a gentle pull.
Clean any dirt from around the differential fill plug. Remove the fill plug and washer from the differential. If friction modifier is added, it will cause the fluid to lose some of it's friction reducing properties as well as reducing seal life. Refer to the table listed below for lubrication specifications. Check the fluid level to ensure it is even with the bottom of the fill plug hole to no lower than 6 mm 0. Install the fill plug and washer to the differential.
Important: Steps are for vehicles equipped with the differential cooling system. For vehicles not equipped with the cooling system, proceed to step Raise the vehicle so the wheels are about a foot off the floor.
Make sure the wheels can spin freely without obstruction from the hoist or any nearby items. Start the vehicle and put the transmission in second gear. Slowly accelerate to 10 mph and hold this speed for one minute.
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